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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.